Higgar Tor climbing – Tuesday 23 June 2015

The File on another day

The File on another day

On a lovely summer’s evening, a select group tackled some of the notoriously difficult routes on the Leaning Block at Higgar Tor, the down climb off of the block being equal in commitment to the routes themselves. Lucky we had Jez to rig an elaborate rope system to get us all off safely. The highlight of the evening must have been “The File” which Jez led with a lot gear, a lot of grunting and a quite a few expletives. I found myself pondering why it was called “The File” – maybe it’s because it’s long and straight, like a file………..Having returned home and seen the amount of skin that was no longer on the back my hands, I realised where it’s name must have come from. Check out some of the other route names on the block!

Simon

Burbage Valley Bouldering – 4 June 2015

Wow, the evening was physical!  Eight club members met up at Fox House and from there, under beautiful clear blue skies, charged into the heart of the Burbage Boulders to do battle; and what a battle it was. Starting off tentatively at Pock Block where we spent a while figuring out how to boulder and how to actually read the guide book. Warmed up, and now vaguely understanding the guide book, the group then advanced into the heart of the boulders, laying siege at The Brick and climbing the majority of what it had to offer. That done, the group made it up to the Armoured Car, all under the watchful eye of The Tank where they sessioned a particularly strenous and awkward 5+. About twenty boulder problems in all were figured out, ranging from font 3+ to 5+, and were climbed in varying styles. One thing was certain, we left the Boulders knowing we had been engaged in a struggle: bloody and split fingers, healing wounds re-opened, grit rash galore, grazes, burning finger tips and cramping feet – what more do you want? Excellent evening.

Simon

Simon bouldering in his high vis kit.

Simon bouldering in his high vis kit.

President’s Update

Dear Member,

There seems to be a lot going on so I thought an update would be useful. So in no particular order:

1. A new meets list for June and July has just been sent out by Andrew. If you have not received one please contact him.

2. Nepal. The Committee decided to make a donation of £100 from club funds towards disaster relief in Nepal, a country which many of us have visited. The money will go to Doug Scott’s charity Community Action Nepal. Further information on Community Action Nepal can be found at http://www.canepal.org.uk/

3. Meets. The weather has not been kind this spring with some meets washed out or blown away! For the eleven of us who made it to Scotland over the Easter holidays the weather was warm (too warm!) following snow and strong winds earlier in the week which created significant avalanche risk. Winter mountaineering routes were climbed on the Ben and Stob Coire nan Lochan, while various Mamores were ascended in conditions ranging from 10 metres to 100 kilometres visibility! Four of the team spent a day rock climbing on Poldubh Crags in Glen Nevis resorting to shorts and T shirts to cope with the conditions. Anglesey was much colder and wetter with climbing only possible on the Friday. Llangollen was cold and windy with some rain but Linda and I managed to climb for 3 of the 4 days we were there. Five us climbed at World’s End one of the days, a crag giving some of the best clinbing in the area. The walking was also good with a large group of us being led by Josie on the Sunday. This weekend we have an away meet to Appletreewick in the Yorkshire Dales. See the meets list for further away meets.

4. The New Members Weekends/Open Climbing Meets in April were a success for new and existing members alike with the combination of indoor and outdoor climbing working well. Over 20 people climbed on each of the two outdoor days. The Committee have just approved 5 applications for membership – welcome to Ben, Matt, Glyn, Gemma and Sam. Our membership count is now 68.

5. The Annual Photographic Competition was judged by Chris Jackson and won (only just) by Martin Whitaker. We must all try harder to beat him so get snapping! The winning photos will be on the website as soon as I have resolved a couple of technical issues.

6. Training. Linda, Nigel, Jez and I attended a Mountain First Aid course run by member Al Cash in May. An excellent course leaving us all feeling more confident in responding to emergencies in the outdoors. Further details of Al’s courses can be found on his website: http://gritstoneadventures.co.uk/ Our next training session is Marian’s Navigation evening on Thursday 16 July. Marian has run similar sessions in the past with those attending impressed by how it has improved their skills in this vital area. Remember that as a BMC member you can access training courses subsidised by them. Start here to see what is available: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/active-outdoors-essential-skills-for-an-outdoor-life If you are looking to improve your skills in a particular area please contact me to see how the club can help.

7. Guidebooks. The club has a collection of old climbing guides, mainly from the 1960’s and 1970’s covering areas of Scotland, the Lakes, Wales and the Peak. They all show the signs of use. If you are interested in any of them contact me for further details.

8. 50th Anniversary. The club will be 50 in 2017 and we plan to hold a number of events to celebrate this milestone. The Committee is keen to get your suggestions, so get in touch with one of us if you have any thoughts. One possibility is an digital (and possibly printed) publication containing new and old articles by club members together with an extensive collection of photographs, hopefully documenting every year of the club’s history. If you have old photos or articles or wish to contribute new ones get in touch.

9. Stanage. There has been friction between the Peak National Park and outdoor community for several years concernring the management (or lack of) of the North Lees Estate. The Peak Park has now appointed Rebekah Newman as Property Manager for North Lees with control over all issues and budgets. The BMC supports this move and attempts to increase revenue to manage the estate. One approach involves individuals donating £15 per annum to the upkeep of Stanage-North Lees. You get a car windscreen sticker for this which enables you to park in the Plantation car park for free. These are available from Outside Hathersage or the BMC or Peak Park websites. Further details are in the latest BMC Peak Area Newsletter which is accessable from Recent News on our Home page.

David

Froggatt Edge climbing – Sunday 10 May 2015

8 members attended the club meet at Froggatt on Sunday; the weather was pleasant and a full day’s climbing was had. There was a fair bit of ‘micky’ taking by Wragg over Marks; just the kind of gentle support one needs from the belayer when one is having a nightmare day climbing. I’m sure the favour will be returned one day. The Dowling brothers teamed up and climbed some impressive routes, including the particularly thuggish Right Flake Crack; a feat that I don’t think ws repeated on the day. Matt attacked the rock with his usual enthusiasm and got a few good leads under his belt under Vanda’s care and protection. Mary made a spirited and gutsy climb of Green Gut, complete with colourful language, urged on by the rest of the group and Judith and some of her family members who also turned up support. Andrew was in fine humorous form managing to put Wragg in his place on one occasion. Later in the day, a hitherto hidden route was eventually located and climbed by the now improving Wragg and Marks partership. Baxter found many sticks and lost only one on the day, after Leon’s throw took an awkward ricochet of a rock. He didn’t, that I am aware of, nick anybody’s sandwiches – Baxter that was, not Leon.

Simon

Meet report : Alternative walk, Ponoch, Costa Blanca 5th March 2015

Linda, Pat, Martin and I could not make the Chatsworth walk so we arranged an alternative of our own. We left the parking above the Polop Paradise urbanisation at 10.30am as we did not think anyone else would join us. Crossing a stream bed, we followed a rough track uphill through scattered woodland. After a brief stop for a drink the terrain steepened significantly. Progress was steady and height gain significant. Linda complained about the missing tea break due to no flask being brought. We had to move in single file as the route was narrow until we gained less steep ground. Here, Martin noted that it was almost one o’clock so we had a break for a drink and snack under a lonely pine tree. The wind was cool so we soon traversed acreoss the side of the mountain and scrambled downwards to steeper ground. Pat questioned whether abseiling was allowed in ‘the rules’ for Thursday walks, but as we had no choice two abseils brought us back down to easier ground and the path back to the parking area. A select group but a great day out with no sign of rain or snow.
David

The report refers to an ascent of the via ferrata, which follows the obvious arete on the right hand side of the main face. The Ponoch is inland from Benidorm, Costa Blanca, Spain.

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Grouse Burbage Valley Circuit 15/1/2015

A bright morning with buffeting winds and the promise of hail and sleet squalls still saw 18 of us gather at the starting point by the Grouse Inn. We were soon in the shelter of the woods on the way down to Grindleford Station. There was plenty of water in the brook as we crossed the footbridge and climbed to meet the wind again above Lawrencefield. At Surprise View the predicted squalls arrived – quite a sight as they came barrelling down the Hope Valley towards us. Fortunately they didn’t last long and we ate our lunch under blue skies in the enclosure below Higgar Tor. After that it was over the tor, round the head of the Burbage Valley, down the Duke’s Drive and through the Longshaw Estate to get back to the Grouse. By now several of us had decidedly ruddy complexions rather like the Skegness Fisherman – not surprising as the day had been ‘so bracing’! Distance 14.3km (8.9miles)
Steve W

Rushup Edge Walk Thurs 8/01/15

Eight people assembled at Barber Booth (despite my wrong promise of mud.
The walk across the fields to the start of Chapel Head Scar was only slightly muddy. The damage caused by off roaders on the main track was apparent A short break was taken before starting along the edge itself. Although it was overcast the views to either side were extensive. After passing Lords Seat (To answer Hugh’s question, It was built just before I was born.) we quickly arrived at Mam Tor summit, in very strong winds. We dropped down the other side and had lunch in a sheltered spot in the old earthworks.
Still in strong winds and now with ice pellets for extra amusement, we dropped down to Hollins Cross and turned towards Edale. Foul weather caused the ‘zipping up of the jacket. Soon the ice stopped, the wind dropped and the walk back to the cars via Edale, across some slightly muddy fields was completed.
A circuit well worth doing again for the historic sites and extensive views of the Peak District.
John C

Seasonal Stagger 21st Dec 2014

We started with 18 humans and one canine, met another 7 humans for lunch, returned with 25 then were joined by 5 for tea, so a good turnout for this popular event in the club’s calendar. The route, according to the Gibson GPS, was 9.8 miles with 1700 feet of ascent – short for a normal Sunday walk but fine for a stagger on the shortest day of the year. A slight extension after lunch was declined by majority vote, with tea and cakes proving the stronger incentive.
The weather proved better than forecast, with only light drizzle and mild winds, and the party made good progress from Crookes down to and along the Rivelin valley. We had enough time for a coffee stop at the old corn mill site before the climb up to Lodge Moor and lunch at The Sportsman. The carvery was popular, along with the well-kept Landlord, allowing a comfortable wait for the 4-strong cycle party and those joining for the afternoon only.
Return along the edge path was quicker than the outward journey, and we were back at Glebe Road by 3.30 to find that David P and Mary had already arrived by bike and had made the first brew! A pleasant social followed, with the club’s large teapot being refilled many times and much banter enjoyed. The popularity of the cakes meant that only a small dent was made in the mince pie mountain, much of which was redistributed among departing members.
Many thanks to all who brought food, and to Chris H for a valiant day’s baking on Saturday.
Happy Christmas and New Year everyone, see you in 2015.
Dave C

Foolow Great Longstone Circuit Thurs 4th Dec

Eleven members left Foolow to follow field paths into Eyam. Once through the village our route took us past the Lydgate Graves and down The Cliff into Stoney Middleton. Although overcast, the views of the Eastern Edges were extensive from our coffee stop overlooking Stoney.
We then descended into Coombs Dale and began the long gradual haul up the dale and onto Longstone Edge for lunch. Again we were treated to far reaching views over Monsal Dale, Great Longstone and Bakewell. It seemed appropriate at this moment to remember Harry Woods, an ex member of the club who passed away recently and whose funeral took place that morning.
Before setting off, Maurice, in an attempt to lift the cultural tone of the day read John Masefield’s poem Cargos. Whether this has set a precedent for future walks remains to be seen, although it was generally agreed that anything longer than three verses would have to wait for warmer weather!
We skirted the settling pond below Longstone Moor farm and followed more field paths through Housley and into Foolow. Unfortunately we couldn’t persuade the land-lady at The Bull’s Head to stay open long enough to serve us a festive cuppa, which would have nicely rounded off an excellent walk.

Sean