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Wye valley weekend, 6/7th Aug 2016, report and hit list!

What a great weekend. Thanks for the good company round the campsite and on the crags. Decent limestone, not very polished, even the classics. Entertainment was also found on the water. Dave C brought his blow up canoe, and Marianne was willing to try something new!! Ask them about their exploits!!!
Leon suggested Symonds yat for Saturday. David and I have had little luck there previously but the new guide explained why. One of the VSs we tried then, was now E2 5c!, Another was upgraded to E1 …..Loved the place this time and cherry picked clean and good lines.
Stayed down until Thursday and as no rain, climbed every day!
Below is a hit list of our favourite routes in each grade that we have done in the last couple of years. VD to E1. What are yours? Time for another visit??
Shorncliffe=sh, Windtours Leap=wl, Wyndcliff=wynd. Symonds yat=sy.
VD. 1. Central route 111, 68m, wl. 2.snoozing suzie,40m, sy. 3.Acoustic, 20m, sh.
4. Bottle buttress 75m, wl.
S. 1. Central rib route 1, 68m, wl. 2. Joyces route 15m, sy. 3. Golden fleece 24m, sy.
4. Vertigo, 15m, sy.
HS. 1. The Phoney Wars,24m, sh. 2. Johns route,60m, wl. 3. Zelda,55m, wl. 4. Indecisive
Victory, 15m, sh.
VS. 1. Whitt, 37m, sy. 2. Cadillac 30m, Wyndcliff, 3. Nibelheim, 87m, wl. 4. Heavy plant crossing,
17m, sh.or iron curtain,sh. or exchange, 24m, sy.
HVS. 1. Red rose speedway, 32m, sy. 2. No muskeeters, 28m, sh, 3. Laughing cavaliers28m, sh
(and all the other routes on this wall!!) 4. Tigers don’t cry, 18m, sh.
E1. 1. Motion pictures 21m, sh. 2. Side effects, 20m, sh, 3. The bone, 18m, sh. 4. Stress arete,
23m, sy.
E2. ……….next year?????
Good night! Linda.

Upper Tor, Kinder South 17 July 2016 – Meet Reort

A great location for a glorious day looking down Grindsbrook to Edale, the Lose Hill to Mam Tor ridge behind and the Peak District stretching off southwards behind that. The rock was rough and the climbing very good, although gardening is needed on some routes. The climbs done were generally agreed to be ‘awkward’ at some point, tough for the grade which is acknowledged in the definitive guidebook. The routes also seemed to require a variety of techniques that cannot be learnt or finessed ‘down the wall,’ mainly involving jamming of various body parts from fingers through insecure wide hands to full body and chimneying. An excellent day out rounded off with a welcome pint in the Old Nags Head.
David

Bleaklow walk 17 July 2016 – report

We caught the shuttle bus to Kings Tree (free as we all had our pensioners’ bus passes). We started up Linch Clough and took a good track to the top of Lower Small Clough. A slight drop to cross Grinah Grain was followed by a climb up to Grinah Stones, the first of the Seven, where we paused for a coffee break and to admire the view. A short flat section brought us to Barrow Stones and our highest point of the day (1927 ft). We dropped down to cross the River Derwent and ascended the opposite bank to Swains Head. Heading east, on a pathless section, we passed Dean Head Stones and Shepherds Meeting Stones. After lunch at some unnamed (on the map) stones, we crossed Coldwell Clough, following a new fence and crossing numerous groughs, to reach the impressive Horse Stone.

Following better paths now, we knocked off Crow Stones and Bull Stones, completing the Seven, and pushed on to Cut Gate. The next stop was Margery Hill, a chance for a photo, cup of tea and (in one case) a snooze. The final high section was along Howden Edge and over High Stones before dropping down to the bottom of Abbey Brook where we stopped to read about the hydro scheme which is being installed there, which will make use of some old disused water pipes. After a final mile and a half on the flat, by the reservoir, we arrived back at Fairholmes.

A great day out on our local moors, and we had it almost to ourselves. We only saw two other people until we got near Margery Hill. We rounded off proceedings with a pint at the Ladybower Inn.

15 miles, 2350 feet of ascent, 8 hours.

Andy

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Grinah Stones

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Horse Stone

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Crow Stones

Margery Hill

Margery Hill

At Dean Head Stones (photo: Sean)

At Dean Head Stones (photo: Sean)

Roaches Meets 10/07/16

Apologies for the weather forecast, it was not correct. Myself Gordon and Tina did a couple routes and were then frightened off by a small squall which in fact never came to anything, in fact weather fine from 10.30 to 5pm. Confusius say don’t take any notice of the weather forecast in future!
Bill

Meet Report Sunday 3rd July 2016 Stanage End

In the end it felt like The Endless Summer. The day slowly clearing into one of those lovely summer evenings on the crag that feels like it could and should go on for ever.

13 club members, one guest plus three dogs ventured out under ominous skies to a peaceful and uncrowded End Slab at Stanage. By early afternoon the sun was out and the party had well and truly begun. Lead climbs ranging from VDiff to VS 5a with noteworthy ascents of The Aerial VDiff, Caliban’s Cave HS 4b and a top roped ascent of The Vice E1 5b.

Andrew very thoughtfully came perfectly coulour coordinated with the green wall on Caliban’s Cave. It was fate – within minutes of his arrival Andrew found himself elegantly stuffed between the green walls deep within the cave wearing his matching fleece.

Julian learned a lot about lead climbing on Aerial VDiff, particularly the importance of a few strategically placed expletives.

Leon won the scavenger of the day award: freeing a long trapped nut from the wall and then surprisingly finding a beer bottle (which was unfortunately empty).

Man legend, John Barnard, put in an appearance and was legend-like all afternoon.

Julian tried his best to leave all his gear behind at the end of the day. Thankfully Leon had gone home by this point.

Club Chair navigated the last remaining climbers for miles across bog and through shoulder high bracken before seemingly delegating the blame to Meet Leader, which the Meet Leader, knowing his place, duly accepted.

A grey number 4 Black Diamond cam was left by somebody, as was a black walking pole bag. Thankfully again Leon had gone home by this point so Dave and Linda have both these items.

An awesome, awesome day washed down with a pint in the Norfolk Arms. Shame it had to end.

Simon

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Langdale camping meet – June 24-26 2016, Meet report

10 of us gathered for this meet in Langdale, some on the quiet and luxurious National Trust campsite, others in the nearby Fell and Rock club hut. On Saturday, some went climbing, either on Gimmer Crag [cold and windy] or the lower and warmer Raven Crag. A group of 5 decided to scramble up the beautiful Crinkle Gill, using a variety of climbing techniques [see pictures] eventually finishing along the ridge and Pike of Blisco. In the evening we gathered outside the New Dungeon Ghyll, entertained by, and applauding, the passing ‘Iron’ men and women completing their final marathon section towards Ambleside. Sunday saw more climbing; 3 did alternate leads on a 3 pitch route on Raven Crag, while 2 others went to Upper Scout Crag where they ended up practising their abseil technique from a convenient tree. Others headed for coffee and the shops of Ambleside, before rain encouraged all of us homewards. Vanda Boyd

Addendum. I’d had problems posting my first Langdale Meet report with several pictures attached, so had rewritten it again from memory to send it successfully without pictures this time, but then omitted mention of Marianne on her 1st away meet with the club, who, electing for the supposedly easier option of a valley walk, ended up walking the furthest [12 miles] and she also managed to include one of the club traditions of finding a great café for coffee and cake to sustain herself.
Vanda Boyd

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Sunday walk Cordwell Valley12th June 2016 – Report

Having read Simon’s climbing report I can only add that the conditions were more suited to walking too! However when I ,as meet leader, arrived at Lineacre Reservoir I found one other member only-so we set out “a deux”.
Initially there were odd spots of rain filtering through the trees,but after the preliminaries and we reached the main road the spots of rain became a deluge which continued for the next 2 hours as we ploughed through fields of wet long grass and climbed gingerly over slippery wooden stiles and negotiated slippery mud banks.
There no anglers at the fish ponds in Barlow and, in fact, we encountered no other walkers all day.
By lunch,however, the rain had stopped.We continued past Cartledge Hall and traversed below Holmesfield before reaching the Cordwell valley floor.Fighting our way through the vegetation we began the steady climb through Meekfield Wood and so onto Barlow Grange.By this point the clouds had lifted enough to allow us to enjoy distant views to Chesterfield in the south and to Owler Bar and beyond in the north.
Our waterproofs had long since been been discarded and our damp clothes were largely dry as we descended past Birley farm and then followed the valley back to Lineacre where a group of frisky bullocks gave chase.
Undaunted we continued into the woods and were back at the cars for 5.30p.m.
An enjoyable day in tranquil countryside and deep conversation.
Mike

Meet Report for 12th June 2016 Climbing

After days of monitoring incoming weather systems and the emerging wet forecast, it was decided to move the meet to Stanage. The meet organiser arrived at 10:30 and speculatively meandered up and down Hooks Car Park wondering “if anybody would brave the weather?” Nobody did. This was a wise choice: the crag was already damp, it was drizzly and there was a heavy shower that passed through around midday. Skies were still looking ominous as i left the Peaks around 2pm.

The meet organiser went for a 6 mile run over Win Hill instead.

A day much more suited to running than climbing.

Simon

 

Castle’s Anglesey meet 2016 makes ‘Climber’ magazine

Immediate Past-President David Pendlebury has found a new job as a magazine centrefold model! Thankfully he was fully clothed – it was a freezing cold day as those members there at Porth Saint will recall. Dave Simmonite was also there and took the photographs illustrating the article. The Club meet for the Spring Public Holiday weekend 2016 was to the Rhoscolyn area of Anglesey and various crags were climbed on including Porth Saint. The weather was mixed but very cold with significant snow on the Snowdonia mountains so we climbed, walked and cycled with a BBQ one night and a meal in the excellent ‘White Eagle’ another.

The article ‘Porth Saint: Gogarth’s Stanage-by the-Sea’ appears in the July-August 2016 issue of ‘Climber.’ If you cannot wait to buy a copy follow this link:
http://www.climber.co.uk/magazines/current-issue.html

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