Seven of us – Linda, David, Kial, Gemma, Steve, Chris and Hugh flew to Bergen in mid May to experience the trad. and sports climbing opportunities close to the city. Kari was an amazing host and opened her house to us all, providing great hospitality, which went as far as passing on her cold to Linda and subsequently Hugh and David! Our first duty, the morning after we arrived, was to celebrate the National Day of Norway with a traditional breakfast, with hosts Kari and Randi in national costume, and a street parade. However, we were soon on the rock!
Bergen has an average of 260 days rain a year and appeared to have one of the highest per capita ownerships of Gortex in the world. However, the islands to the west – Sotra and Oygarden – where most of the climbing is, are much drier. We hit a perfect weather window over the first five days so climbed until we dropped. The trad. climbing we did was mostly on granite from single to four pitch routes. The sports climbing was largely on gneiss, characterised by extensive horizontal banding on steep walls. The climbing was never more than 30 minutes from the road but in beautiful quiet locations, sometimes next to the sea. The crags were quiet, especially the trad. ones
Eventually the rain did catch up with us (we began to understand why the guidebooks are published on waterproof paper) so we spent a day in the city and walked up one of the hills that surround Bergen. Another day’s climbing and Steve and Chris were on their way home. Kial and Gemma had a day in the fjords, while the other three also headed there to stay on Amund and Randi’s farm for a couple of nights. We visited a very wet Uskadalen on the way – amazing granite slabs with multi-pitch routes. Hopefully we will get back there one day.
Randi and Amund took Linda, David and Hugh on a very enjoyable Via Ferrata above the town of Odda. It follows old wooden ladders and then staples across granite slabs and walls, beside huge iron pipes which used to supply water for a hydro-electric scheme. From the top there were extensive views along fjords with glaciers above. Following a couple more days on tourist activities, including ferry and train rides and a visit to a medieval stave church, we returned to Bergen. The last days were spent dodging the weather, including two half days climbing and a great evening’s sea kayaking with Laila.
Thanks again to Kari and Randi and we hope to welcome them to the Peak District soon.
Bamford Meet 7 July 2019 Report
12 keen members enjoyed perfect climbing temperatures and fine weather on Bamford Edge on Sunday. Most of the climbing took place on Neb Buttress with some straying rightward to Christmas Buttress (introduced by Chris and not in the so called ‘definitive’ guidebook) and Gun Buttress. There was much debate about both the line and grade of Bamford Rib (HVS?) which was climbed by 3 parties and Oracle provided good sport and photography, being in a fine position. Great day out before the crowds arrived and an early finish for most, except Paul and Andrew who were last seen on Gunpowder Crack having struggled up the first overhang (5b on a VS!).
Mark P
Shining Clough Sun 30th June 2019 Meet Report
9 members, 1 non member and statutory dog attended the Shinning Clough meet. Bill kindly checked another car park to see if Jo and Chris where there but they just arrived later having had much to much fun the previous night. Bill still managed to beat us getting up to the crag as we decided to go the ‘scenic’ way through the heather- meet leader skills sadly lacking. Good climbing and lovely day. Thanks to all.
Mary
Meet report Black Rock Sands 22-23 June 2019
2 caravans, 2 camper vans, 1 horse, 1 dog, an assortment of tents large, small and inflatable plus 18 humans (Inc 2 children) turned up in glorious sunshine for the weekend.
Friday night was leisurely apart from gentle trips to the beach, although David and Linda arrived after a day’s climbing.
Saturday was another sun filled extravaganza and several climbing teams headed for Tremadog, Moelwyns (full, so diverted to Ogwen) and elsewhere. A 9 mile walk was also undertaken to Portmerion via tracks and beach, also a free steam train lift back thanks to Vanda. Elen rode her horse and reported great views from the saddle. The meet leader had an exhausting day entertaining a 9 year old on the beach, but the sea was warm for swimming. Horse visiting and feeding also featured as did the rare occurrence of D & L being the first climbers back to the campsite!! As normal, Hugh was last.
Saturday night was bbq night plus “entertainment” from the pub with a loud rock band!! At least we didn’t pay. Food was excellent and thanks to Jo for the whiskey.
Sunday was a bit less sunny but more climbing, cycling and a walk took place, at least that was the plan. All I can say is the walk definitely took place, complete with Shetland ponies.
Thanks to all who turned up, sorry for those who were unable to attend.
Cheers
Paul
Sunday 16th June 2019 Stanage High Neb
Well we all went to High Neb and surprisingly it was quite crowded David, Linda, Leon, Dawn, Mary, Dick, Tom, Lee, Howard, Cesca who arrived just in time for the heavy deluge at 2pm and sheltered with a couple others in a cave only to be wetted by Lance coming in to dry himself, three friends on mine Anne, Ken and Paul who went to Kalimnos last year and was hoping to have his first day’s outside climbing on rock since breaking his ankle there but found it was hard enough just walking to the crag unfortunately, he wasn’t tempted to climb watching us all try through gritted teeth and frozen bodies. Thanks for everyone for persevering as long as you all did. Some of us had a coffee afterwards in Outside. Bill (I must have left someone out I usually do sorry)
Langdale Meet 24-27th May 2019
Some of us got there on Friday, for a fine day of climbing on Scout Crag and walking.
By Friday evening there were 11 of us, a dog and a boy; and we’d made contact with each other on the massive Bays brown camp site.
Saturday was fine. Climbing groups went to Scout Crag and Gimmer. Others ran to Grasmere and the boy got up his first hill.
Saturday night was wet. A late start on Sunday. Most of us headed up Crinkle Gill scramble, which proved impassable due to the heavy rain flooding out the gorge. It looks good for another trip. We cut up to the hillside to finish over Pike o Blisco and cream teas at the New Dungeon Gill.
Monday one group went over to Grasmere and another group headed for Little Langdale via an interesting slate quarry on Lingmell with rain coming through just after 2pm with one group timing it perfectly getting back.
Welcome to new member, Paul.
Geoff
Meet Report – Central Wales 4th-6th May 2019
17 people and a dog (obligatory) met at Maes y Morfa campsite above Lllangranog, near New Quay for, mainly, climbing on Pen Bilis and Ynys Lochtyn; a small peninsula and its adjoining (mostly) tidal island.
The meet leaders, taking their obligations very seriously, sacrificed a couple of days bimbling around in the Peak District to arrive early and suss out the lay of the land, climbing some one-star future classics on Hidden Wall at v-diff, severe and hard severe (or, in gritstone language, mod, diff and v-diff) and realising that wires from micro to no. 3 and small slings were all that were required; although they continued to carry the rest of their gear for the exercise.
Other members arrived over the next 2 days and together found that there were some decent routes worthy of their stars and with more conventional gear. The rock is a very hard sandstone with quartz veins, varying from blocky in some places to flaky (superb small flakes, which feel fragile – but nobody broke any…) in others.
Climbs were done on Hidden Wall (easy access), Quartz Wall, Recessed Wall and Yellow Wall on Ynys Lochtyn and on Def Squad Buttress on Pen Bilis. Grades from Diff to E1.
Note: the rock on the (traversing descent) approach scramble to Ynys Lochtyn is very grippy when dry and like an oiled Teflon frying pan when wet… There is an abseil post to avoid it.
Climbing highlights
Keith Murray HS 4b
Deeply Dippy VS 4c
Menace from the Deep VS 5a
Seal VS4c
The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a
Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves S 4a
Heulwen Cwarts E1 5a
Other activities were numerous and included:
Walking sections of the Ceredigion coast path, which is absolutely beautiful, with cliffs cut by small streams, lush vegetation: ferns; bluebells; spring squill; gorse; birds: red kites; ravens; chaffinches; stone chats; oyster catchers. A group of 8 did the section from New Quay (the far side of, as we’d got beta on a free car park saving 75p each..!) to the campsite with some car-shuffling. Others walked south of the campsite, looping back inland; again on beautiful paths, tracks and quiet country lanes.
A family boat trip ended in an exciting transfer to a smaller boat that could cross the new sand bar at low tide to reach the shore.
A local National Trust property, Llanerchaeron, was visited by some.
Painting on Ynys Lochtyn in the shelter of a soft, grassy hollow.
Sleeping, in the same grassy hollow.
Dolphins were seen cavorting on three separate occasions – a wonderful sight.
Sitting round a fire at the campsite – wood supplied free!
The weather was kind, a cold wind on some days, with cloud and sun – much better than it could have been.
The campsite was great – we had a field to ourselves – the facilities were really good and the owner, Pob, was very efficient and almost as laid back as Bill B.
John
Sunday 5th May 2019 – Walk Report
26 of us gathered at Taddington school, plus Harvey a Border Terrier, to start this walk. The reason for this huge number was due to the fact that 11 Castle members were joined by 15 members of The Association Of British members Of the Swiss Alpine Club who were staying reasonably close at Monyash. (Five Castle members are also ABMSAC members) At least it gave us plenty of people to talk to!
From the school we crossed the A6, headed north on the Priestcliffe road then took the Limestone Way to the Monsal Trail where we turned left and through the Chee Tor Tunnel. As the River Wye was running low we descended into the depths of Chee Dale and took the superb path along the river crossing over stepping stones in a very dramatic setting. Just after we saw two climbers doing an impressive 7A sport route, if only youth hadn’t passed me by……….!
Eventually we came to Blackwell Mill Cottages, crossed the bridge over the river and stopped for coffee on the riverbank close to where the wild garlic was about to burst into flower.
After our break we crossed back over the A6 at the Topley Pike car park and then took the enclosed path alongside the quarry which has been working since 1907. Due to new quarry workings we unfortunately couldn’t take the path along the floor of Deep Dale so took the re-routed path along the top of the dale which did give us some magnificent views of the surrounding countryside plus a walk amongst a carpet of primulas, daisies, orchids and other wild flowers.
Lunch was taken close to the junction of Horseshoe Dale and Back Dale with again fine views from the top of the dale albeit in a rather chilly position. At the end of the Dale we took paths to Chelmorton passing the church set at 1200 feet making it one of the highest in England. We also passed some stone troughs which once supplied all the village water.
Climbing up from the village we passed Sough Top our last hill climb before descending back to Taddington.
Thanks to all who came and for your company. A really enjoyable walk especially along the river Wye.
Pete and Jane
Easter Isle of Skye Meet Report April 2019
Nine CMC members camped at Sligachan campsite for the Easter break. Bill, Gemma and Kial arrived early and ventured onto the Ridge to bag some peaks before the rest of us arrived on Good Friday. The whole group explored the Quiraing on Saturday, and admired the basalt formations and views from the high points of Sron Vourlinn and Meall Na Suiramach. Inclement weather on Sunday led to an excellent coastal walk along the Ardnish peninsula, near Broadford. Here we spotted dolphins, seals, and a variety of sea birds. Kial and Gemma enjoyed a cultural and historical tour including Dunvegan Castle.
We had to bid farewell to some of the workers on Monday. However the list of bagged tops continued to grow over the next few days with Kial and Gemma completing Marsco, Beinn Dearg, and Beinn Dearg Mheathonach. Marian, Andrew and Ali set off for a two day cycle/walking adventure to the Isle of Raasay. Andrew enjoyed the ferry so much that he made an immediate return trip to pick up his rucksack that he’d left on the dock at Sconser. Having consumed coffee and cake at Raasay House and, finally in possession of all our gear, we cycled to the Northern hamlet of Arnish, following the infamous Calum’s Road – the hard toil of a remarkable crofter who decided to build a connecting link between his community and the rest of the island. Armed with just a pick, spade and wheel-barrow Calum Macleod completed the road over a period of ten years, after numerous pleas to the local council were ignored for many decades. From Arnish we walked to the only bothy on the island, marvelling at the views of Fladda, Rona, Skye and the Torridon hills. On the walk-out, the next day, Andrew summited a relative hill for even more terrific views. The return to the ferry seemed to involve more pushing than cycling at times as the short and steep inclines began to take their toll. Strong coffee provided just the pick-uo needed to complete the ferry ride and cycle back to the campsite.
Other highlights of the Meet included drinks and chats hosted by Chris and Jo one evening (in a Billy Smart sized tent) and also by Kial and Gemma another evening, in their superior tepee with wood burning stove. During these very convivial gatherings we expanded our knowledge of subjects varying from the the geology of the Quiraing to “hot spots” and how to share data. Still confused!
A Scottish away meet is not complete without some wild dips/swims. Several were completed both in fresh and salt water. Bill, Gemma, Kial and Ali all braved the waters at various times.
On the final day Andrew and Kial climbed at Staffa and completed the spectacular two pitch classic “Return of the Stone”. Kial led the second pitch which involved a nerve jangling large step off a rock column onto the main rock face. He wins the bravery award!
Overall the weather was very favourable with clear sunny skies. However blustery winds prevailed throughout the trip which, of course, perhaps preventing some of the planned ridge excursions. Nevertheless, great company made the Skye adventure into a memorable and enjoyable few days. Many thanks to everyone who made the long journey.
Ali
Nine CMC members camped at Sligachan campsite for the Easter break. Bill, Gemma and Kial arrived early and ventured onto the Ridge to bag some peaks before the rest of us arrived on Good Friday. The whole group explored the Quiraing on Saturday, and admired the basalt formations and views from the high points of Sron Vourlinn and Meall Na Suiramach. Inclement weather on Sunday led to an excellent coastal walk along the Ardnish peninsula, near Broadford. Here we spotted dolphins, seals, and a variety of sea birds. Kial and Gemma enjoyed a cultural and historical tour including Dunvegan Castle.
We had to bid farewell to some of the workers on Monday. However the list of bagged tops continued to grow over the next few days with Kial and Gemma completing Marsco, Beinn Dearg, and Beinn Dearg Mheathonach. Marian, Andrew and Ali set off for a two day cycle/walking adventure to the Isle of Raasay. Andrew enjoyed the ferry so much that he made an immediate return trip to pick up his rucksack that he’d left on the dock at Sconser. Having consumed coffee and cake at Raasay House and, finally in possession of all our gear, we cycled to the Northern hamlet of Arnish, following the infamous Calum’s Road – the hard toil of a remarkable crofter who decided to build a connecting link between his community and the rest of the island. Armed with just a pick, spade and wheel-barrow Calum Macleod completed the road over a period of ten years, after numerous pleas to the local council were ignored for many decades. From Arnish we walked to the only bothy on the island, marvelling at the views of Fladda, Rona, Skye and the Torridon hills. On the walk-out, the next day, Andrew summited a relative hill for even more terrific views. The return to the ferry seemed to involve more pushing than cycling at times as the short and steep inclines began to take their toll. Strong coffee provided just the pick-uo needed to complete the ferry ride and cycle back to the campsite.
Other highlights of the Meet included drinks and chats hosted by Chris and Jo one evening (in a Billy Smart sized tent) and also by Kial and Gemma another evening, in their superior tepee with wood burning stove. During these very convivial gatherings we expanded our knowledge of subjects varying from the the geology of the Quiraing to “hot spots” and how to share data. Still confused!
A Scottish away meet is not complete without some wild dips/swims. Several were completed both in fresh and salt water. Bill, Gemma, Kial and Ali all braved the waters at various times.
On the final day Andrew and Kial climbed at Staffa and completed the spectacular two pitch classic “Return of the Stone”. Kial led the second pitch which involved a nerve jangling large step off a rock column onto the main rock face. He wins the bravery award!
Overall the weather was very favourable with clear sunny skies. However blustery winds prevailed throughout the trip which, of course, perhaps preventing some of the planned ridge excursions. Nevertheless, great company made the Skye adventure into a memorable and enjoyable few days. Many thanks to everyone who made the long journey.
Ali
Open Climbing Meets 2019 – May 10 and 12
Go rock climbing outdoors with us in the Peak District this year in April or May.
Image copyright Peter O’Donovan.
Meet fellow climbers, find out more about the Club, and learn how to progress from indoors to outdoors.
These weekends provide the opportunity for potential new members to find out more about the Club, and meet fellow climbers with a range of abilities and ages.
It can be daunting to move from the security of the climbing wall, to placing your own gear, setting up a safe belay, and working out where a route goes in the outdoors. Joining up with a mountaineering club and its club members, who have been there before and often have many years experience, can ease this move. Members are able to offer informal advice, mentoring and climbing partners while Club membership provides access to BMC training courses.
Dates and locations
1st Meet:
12 April – Indoors: Awesome Walls, Sheffield, from 6pm onwards
14 April – Outdoors: Birchen Edge, from 10am (meeting at the car park adjacent to Robin Hood pub).
2nd Meet:
10 May – Indoors: Awesome Walls, Sheffield, from 6pm onwards
12 May – Outdoors: Stanage Popular End from 10am
What you need
Ideally you will have, as a minimum, climbed indoors, have your own harness, belay device, helmet and shoes and can tie on safely and belay someone competently. However, the club has some equipment which will be available on both weekends. If in doubt, please speak to Andrew (see below).
Who we are
Castle Mountaineering Club members undertake a wide range of activities including rock climbing, mountaineering, walking, trekking, skiing, ski mountaineering, ski touring, cycling and mountain biking. We are a sociable and supportive group with a lot of combined experience. What unites us is our love of the outdoors, whether it’s the great countryside on our doorstep in the Peak District or adventures further afield.
If you would like to join us on one of our weekends, it is important to contact us in advance, to let us know your details, in case we have to inform you of a change of venue, due to bad weather.
Andrew Milne, membership secretary can be contacted on 0114 268 6605 or via Contact Us on the Home page.