Meet Report – Central Wales 4th-6th May 2019

17 people and a dog (obligatory) met at Maes y Morfa campsite above Lllangranog, near New Quay for, mainly, climbing on Pen Bilis and Ynys Lochtyn; a small peninsula and its adjoining (mostly) tidal island.

The meet leaders, taking their obligations very seriously, sacrificed a couple of days bimbling around in the Peak District to arrive early and suss out the lay of the land, climbing some one-star future classics on Hidden Wall at v-diff, severe and hard severe (or, in gritstone language, mod, diff and v-diff) and realising that wires from micro to no. 3 and small slings were all that were required; although they continued to carry the rest of their gear for the exercise.

Other members arrived over the next 2 days and together found that there were some decent routes worthy of their stars and with more conventional gear. The rock is a very hard sandstone with quartz veins, varying from blocky in some places to flaky (superb small flakes, which feel fragile – but nobody broke any…) in others.

Climbs were done on Hidden Wall (easy access), Quartz Wall, Recessed Wall and Yellow Wall on Ynys Lochtyn and on Def Squad Buttress on Pen Bilis. Grades from Diff to E1.

Note: the rock on the (traversing descent) approach scramble to Ynys Lochtyn is very grippy when dry and like an oiled Teflon frying pan when wet… There is an abseil post to avoid it.

Climbing highlights
Keith Murray HS 4b
Deeply Dippy VS 4c
Menace from the Deep VS 5a
Seal VS4c
The Day the Balloon Went Up S 4a
Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves S 4a
Heulwen Cwarts E1 5a

Other activities were numerous and included:
Walking sections of the Ceredigion coast path, which is absolutely beautiful, with cliffs cut by small streams, lush vegetation: ferns; bluebells; spring squill; gorse; birds: red kites; ravens; chaffinches; stone chats; oyster catchers. A group of 8 did the section from New Quay (the far side of, as we’d got beta on a free car park saving 75p each..!) to the campsite with some car-shuffling. Others walked south of the campsite, looping back inland; again on beautiful paths, tracks and quiet country lanes.

A family boat trip ended in an exciting transfer to a smaller boat that could cross the new sand bar at low tide to reach the shore.

A local National Trust property, Llanerchaeron, was visited by some.

Painting on Ynys Lochtyn in the shelter of a soft, grassy hollow.

Sleeping, in the same grassy hollow.

Dolphins were seen cavorting on three separate occasions – a wonderful sight.

Sitting round a fire at the campsite – wood supplied free!

The weather was kind, a cold wind on some days, with cloud and sun – much better than it could have been.

The campsite was great – we had a field to ourselves – the facilities were really good and the owner, Pob, was very efficient and almost as laid back as Bill B.


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