Edale Circular – Sunday 13th October report

Rosy hints on the tops on the early morning drive over to Edale. After the meet leader had been reminded of the start time five of us set off up Grindsbrook, taking the North branch to the plateau. Just enough water to make this fun scramble practical. A navigational senior moment took us directly to the top of Fairbrook, rather than Kinder gates – but that was the aim in the end anyway. We descended Fairbrook Gully which has managed to unjustifiably sneak into the scrambles guide. Fine autumn colours descending Fairbrook. Back up to Seal Stones and over the short crossing to Edale. A lovely day. Thanks to my bog trotting companions. Geoff.

Sicily Meet Oct 2024 (Part 1) report

The first wave of club members have just returned from a fun-packed week sport climbing in NW Sicily. The first group was made up of seven Castle members plus honorary member Rich and honorary spaniel Mani.
We demonstrated a strong work ethic climbing in most sectors of the Scogliera di Salinella crags and ticking an impressive number of routes. Most teams climbed for two sessions a day – ticking off routes in the morning, having a siesta by the pool during the afternoon heat, and then climbing again in the evening. Our only “rest day” involved a 500m scramble up Timpone Ridge, a striking curved ridge which runs up the hillside near the campsite. Paul ensured that the occupants of Chalet 5 were out on the crags early by suffusing the apartment with pleasant smells after his morning visit to the WC. Rumours of major blockages in the local sewage system proved unfounded.
It is hard to pick out individual routes and performances. Eli set a high bar by stylishly gliding up routes up to and including 6c. Andy took advantage of the mid-season transfer window by moving up from the Vanarama league to the Premiership and was soon powering up 6a and 6a+ routes. A standout expedition was an evening visit to the stunning two-pitch Sunset Arete (5b). Thanks to Tom’s skilful rope management we were able to do the route as a team of four. The route lived up to its’ name as the sun did indeed set when we were on the route. By the time we lowered off the bottom pitch it was pitch dark!
The après-climb was very sociable. Chalet 5 hosted jolly evening planning meetings providing nibbles and alcoholic drinks – though it is unlikely that the “Tom Andrews”, a combination of lambrusco and limoncello, will enter the list of classic cocktails!
When we should have been packing on the last evening we were still raring to go. Simon demonstrated his inner caveman by dragging Lorna off to do the Trad Route (5a) up the inside wall of a cave – but Lorna quickly reasserted 21st century womanhood by making him go back up the route to retrieve the gear! Eli, Rich, Andy and Keri ticked off a selection of harder routes. Tom combined his love of climbing and trashy B movies by leading the Attack of the 50 Foot Woman (6a) and the Creature from the Black Lagoon (6a). Paul and Julian wandered off to do the highly recommended Happy Birthday (5b) but managed to do Chris (6a) by mistake! They followed this by scaring the pigeons roosting in a cave on the impressive El Bahira (5b). This three-star route has an awkward start through steel cables which secure a massive block to the main face. You are then rewarded with an airy ascent of the arete on small but positive holds.
A great week with brilliant climbing and excellent company. Many thanks to Lorna and Simon for coordinating the meet and providing invaluable advice about the different climbing areas. Paul E

Galloway sea cliffs 27-29 Sep 2024 – meet report

Eleven of us made it to Galloway over the course of the meet. Marian, Mary and Kathy joined from a 5 day cycling trip in the area. Friday afternoon we climbed on Crammag Head – on Viking Zawn; difficult to identify the routes, some of which remain a mystery and one of which is now minus a large block. On Saturday – we climbed at Mull of Galloway, Carrickcorie. Routes included ones put up by club members Martin, Pat, Dave and Linda in 2000: Old Whippersnappers, Anemone Action, Ruddy ‘ard Kipperling, Friends in High Plaices, Happy as a Sand Martin – and others. Clearly some route naming fun in the day. On Sunday we went back to Crammag Head –Lighthouse walls. The guidebook supplement written by a local climber was very helpful with a lot of worthwhile routes at easy grades. Poor weather on Monday meant those remaining retreated to sodden Sheffield.

All the joys of sea cliff climbing: tricky route finding, abseiling in and some loose rock. Wonderful atmosphere with pounding waves, dolphins, sun on the sea and views of distant land. Some top quality climbs. If we go again its worth seeing if a new guide has come out. The SMC web site records a lot of new climbs since the 2004 guide, many at easy grades, but these will be easier to locate with diagrams. Worth taking cycles as a poor weather option. The Galloway coast path would also be worthwhile. Welcome to Em and Tomasz on their first away meet. Thanks to the cycling team for booking a chalet which provided a warm haven in the evenings.
Geoff

Kathy’s photos:
 

 

 

Meet report – Dovestones Tor – 18th August 2024

It was cold. About 12 of us made it to Dovestones. Normally a good crag for this time of year. By 12.0 any icy wind caused all but three of us to retreat to warming climes, such as Win Hill. The remaining three were joined by prospective member, Adrian. It got warmer, slightly, and we climbed ‘till 5.0. Good to contribute to keeping this crag useable for another year! Geoff

Marsden to Edale walk 27th July 2024 – meet report

Three of us met up at Sheffield station for the 7.22 to Marsden, via Leeds and Huddersfield.
20 mins at Huddersfield allowed us to view the statue of Huddersfield’s famous son, Harold Wilson. We set off from Marden at 9.10. Up by the Wessenden reservoirs to Snoopy’s van on the Isle of Skye road for bacon butties and tea. Good paved path to Black Hill then a sneaky trod to take us to the path leading below Crowden quarries. Another stop at Crowden campsite for an ice cream. Along the N side of Torside Reservoir before the climb up Torside clough. Over Bleaklow Head on the Pennine way before cutting down to Upper North Grain cabin on another vague trod and to the A57. Down the road to the old Snake Inn – dodging the traffic. Up to Seal Stones and along the N side of the plateau to the top of Blackden Brook. The 12 min crossing of Kinder to Upper Tor, straight down to Grindsbrook and Edale. Arriving at 7.45. 23 miles, 4000 feet and a welcome pint before the 8.30 train. This is the quickest route, although the A57 section is not ideal. An alternative from Bleaklow is to go over the Snake Pass, Mill Hill, Kinder Low, Kinder Downfall and Grindslow Knoll. Apart from 30 mins of drizzle on Torside weather was perfect. Not too hot, light breeze. Great views from Blackhill and from Kinder in the evening light. Thanks to my stalwart companions.Geoff

Bleaklow by bus 16 Jun 2024 – meet report

Five of us got the bus out – which was only 10 minutes late. We disembarked on the snake summit at 11.0 in drizzle. The route to Bleaklow was shared by Spine race participants; the 200 who had started on Saturday were well on their way to Kirk Yetholm and the 300 who had started this morning bustling by us. They had to make it in 6 days. For £875 they get 5 rest stations with minimalist shelter for a bivi bag and the reassurance their progress is being tracked. The race also runs in the winter when the record was set in 2024 – 72hours, 55 mins and 5 seconds for the 265 miles! From Bleaklow we saw nobody else all day. A minor navigational hitch and then down The Ridge towards Alport Castles, weather brightening up all the way. In fact, it was glorious. A steady sub-spine pace got us to Fairholmes with 20 minutes to spare for the 4.15 bus home. By 4.35 we’d given up waiting and started hitching. Two of us got a lift back to Crosspool. The other three got the bus which arrived just later. A good route taking us to unfrequented places. 17km. On Sundays this 257 bus goes on to Glossop, Hayfield and round to Castleton, so offers the possibility of more walk/bus combinations. Thanks to all for a lovely day. Geoff

Report on Braemar meet 28 May – 5 June 2024

8 members found their way to the excellent Cairngorm Club hut near Linn of Dee. 2 had a particularly challenging journey, having to divert via Stonehaven (yes, really) because of an evening road closure.
Everyone had a go at cooking delicious shared meals – and no cases of food poisoning were recorded.
2 people managed a dash to Aberdeen for a night at the opera.
Red squirrels and greater spotted woodpeckers were among the wildlife observed near the hut.
Several people braved a dip in the Dee after their final hill walk, and at least one person swam in mountain lochs.
The local hills held a competition as to which could attract the most Castle ascents. Results:
Morrone 2
Carn Bhac 2
Broad Cairn 2
Beinn Mheadhoin 2
Derry Cairngorm 2
Beinn Bhreac 2
Beinn a Chaorainn 2
Beinn Bhrotain 2 or was it 3?
Monadh Mor 2 ” ” ” 3?
The Cairnwell 2
Carn Aosda 2
Carn a Gheoidh 2
Carn nan Fhidleir 3
An Sgarsoch 3
Creag Leacach 4
Glas Maol 4
Glas Tulaichean 4
Carn an Righ 4
An Socach 4
Mt Keen 5
and the winner…. drum roll…….
Carn a Mhaim 6.

That makes about 61 person hill ascents, 59 of them Munros, and quite a few Munro tops were visited too.
Many thanks to Richard for booking the hut and organising, and to all participants for a cheery and successful trip. John Hutch

Saturday 1 June 2024 – White Peak bagging circular

To kick off the summer season 9 people and 4 dogs assembled at Earl Sterndale for a 9.30 start. The objective was to complete a three mini-peak circular for list-tickers. We arrived at the first peak within the first kilometer. A short and very steep grassy ascent led to the first trig point of High Wheeldon. From there we had great views over to Parkhouse (often called the Dragon’s Back) and Chrome that dominate the landscape in this part of the Peak District. After the obligatory photo stop we contoured down the valley and onward to Pilsbury Hill with some significant sculptural limestone outcrops and then Carder Low (both Ethels). The latter was little moe than a bump in a field! A refreshment and lunch stop at Pilsbury Castle – a great example of a Norman motte and bailey – provided us with the energy to complete the route back up the valley. We were graced with hares chasing around in meadows and buzzards overhead. One last pull over Hitter Hill finished the walk at the back of the old pub, The Quiet Woman, (now under construction), where Andrew remembered being able to buy Hartington cheese offcuts back in the day! Approximately 10 miles completed on a windy day with warm sunny spells. Great company all the way round! Ali.