Sicily Meet (Part 1)

[Paul Embley]

The first wave of club members have just returned from a fun-packed week sport climbing in NW Sicily. The first group was made up of seven Castle members plus honorary member Rich and honorary spaniel Mani.
We demonstrated a strong work ethic climbing in most sectors of the Scogliera di Salinella crags and ticking an impressive number of routes. Most teams climbed for two sessions a day – ticking off routes in the morning, having a siesta by the pool during the afternoon heat, and then climbing again in the evening. Our only “rest day” involved a 500m scramble up Timpone Ridge, a striking curved ridge which runs up the hillside near the campsite. Paul ensured that the occupants of Chalet 5 were out on the crags early by suffusing the apartment with pleasant smells after his morning visit to the WC. Rumours of major blockages in the local sewage system proved unfounded.
It is hard to pick out individual routes and performances. Eli set a high bar by stylishly gliding up routes up to and including 6c. Andy took advantage of the mid-season transfer window by moving up from the Vanarama league to the Premiership and was soon powering up 6a and 6a+ routes. A standout expedition was an evening visit to the stunning two-pitch Sunset Arete (5b). Thanks to Tom’s skilful rope management we were able to do the route as a team of four. The route lived up to its’ name as the sun did indeed set when we were on the route. By the time we lowered off the bottom pitch it was pitch dark!
The après-climb was very sociable. Chalet 5 hosted jolly evening planning meetings providing nibbles and alcoholic drinks – though it is unlikely that the “Tom Andrews”, a combination of lambrusco and limoncello, will enter the list of classic cocktails!
When we should have been packing on the last evening we were still raring to go. Simon demonstrated his inner caveman by dragging Lorna off to do the Trad Route (5a) up the inside wall of a cave – but Lorna quickly reasserted 21st century womanhood by making him go back up the route to retrieve the gear! Eli, Rich, Andy and Keri ticked off a selection of harder routes. Tom combined his love of climbing and trashy B movies by leading the Attack of the 50 Foot Woman (6a) and the Creature from the Black Lagoon (6a). Paul and Julian wandered off to do the highly recommended Happy Birthday (5b) but managed to do Chris (6a) by mistake! They followed this by scaring the pigeons roosting in a cave on the impressive El Bahira (5b). This three-star route has an awkward start through steel cables which secure a massive block to the main face. You are then rewarded with an airy ascent of the arete on small but positive holds.
A great week with brilliant climbing and excellent company. Many thanks to Lorna and Simon for coordinating the meet and providing invaluable advice about the different climbing areas.

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