Peak Pioneers Ticklist

[Paul Embley]

Matt’s challenging Roaches Ticklist got me thinking about a more amenable list. How about a list of 3-star routes climbed up to and including the First World War? Some back and footing up dirty chimneys? Perhaps the odd Severe move out on a face? A trawl through my guidebooks came up with the following routes including a surprising number of high grade climbs. Astonishingly several were climbed solo. In deference to the early pioneers, whenever grades differed between guidebooks I have used the higher grades. The photos are of the ubiquitous J W Puttrell and Siegfried Herford of Scafell Buttress fame who died in the trenches.
1. The Staircase (Laddow) – Mod [pre-1905]
2. ZigZag (Kinder Downfall) – VDiff [1900]
3. Long Climb (Laddow) – HVD [pre-1909]
4. Puttrell’s Progress (Wharncliffe) – S 4a [1885-1902]
5. The Great Chimney (Kinder Downfall) – HS 4b [1903]
6. Jeffcoats Buttress (Roaches) – HS 5a/3c [1913]
7. Central Climb (Hen Cloud) – VS 4c [1909]
8. High Neb Buttress (Stanage) – VS 4c [1916] Solo!!
9. Tower Face (Laddow) – VS 5a [1916]
10. Cave Crack (Laddow) – HVS 5a [1916]
11. Herford’s Route (The Pagoda, Kinder South) – HVS 5a [1910]
12. Cave Arete Indirect (Laddow) – E1 5b/5a [1916] – reputedly soloed!

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[Chris Lunn]

Some great routes there Paul and I’ve followed puttrell up the black and white picture it’s great chimney crack on wharncliffe would mind trying some of the routes you’ve listed

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