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After a last minute change to our transport arrangements sixteen of us were flown to Lundy by helicopter rather than by boat. This was exciting but meant that we had to restrict the weight of our bags, leave behind gas canisters for our stoves and arrived on the island too late to climb on our first day. We also learned on arrival that due to the success of the seabird breeding colonies this spring there were extra restrictions on climbing areas. From there onwards all was in our favour. Tides were friendly, we had sunshine every day and the easterly winds meant that the west coast climbing venues remained warm and sheltered,
Unsurprisingly the big attraction was the massive slab of the Devil’s Slide so that we needed a rota system to avoid overcrowding. Two teams padded up Satan’s Slip (E1 5a) with it’s gear free 40 metre second pitch up the centre of the slab. A team of three climbed the impressive corner followed by Albion VS (4c). Impressively all fifteen climbers ascended Devil’s Slide HS (4a) during our stay. This led to much discussion back on the campsite on the best way to complete the delicate traverse on the top pitch. Hand traverse or foot traverse? The jury is still out! Visits were also made to Flying Buttress, Landing Craft Bay, Picnic Buttress and Arch Zawn with many classic routes ticked such as Diamond Solitaire (VS), Double Diamond (HVS), Indy 500 (E1), Horseman’s Route (HS) and Headline (E1). One group misguidedly ventured onto the Knights Templar rocks on the windy east coast and climbed in several windproof layers whilst the rest of the group were climbing in tee-shirts on the west coast.
The enjoyment of our climbing was enhanced by our closeness to the island’s spectacular wildlife. Fallow deer, hebridean sheep, wild ponies and highland cattle roam the uplands whilst the sea cliffs are home to nesting seabirds and grey seals basking on the rocks below. Everyone’s favourites were the puffins above Picnic Bay which lined up to watch us eating our sandwiches.
In the evenings good food and excellent beer tempted us into the Marisco Tavern. On two nights we were entertained by a talented group of musicians who encouraged us to sing along to sea shanties and contemporary classics and baffled us with a song about a next door neighbour who liked to dress up as a female badger!
Fortunately the boat was back in action for our return journey allowing some of us to enjoy some final climbing, Gordon and Hugh to search for a WW2 plane wreck and the rest of us to walk round the island enjoying the wildlife. A great trip enjoyed by those of us who were visiting the island for the first time and also by the Lundy regulars.
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