11th October – Dovestones Edge

[Geoff Nichols]

The meet on 11th October has been diverted to Dovestones Edge – Chew Valley (SE 027039).

Park at Dove Stone Reservoir [tea van and toilets, pay and display], (SE 013035). From the West side of Sheffield I go via Glossop and Stalybridge. It takes 1 hour 15 mins.

Climbs: ‘The finest crag in the Chew area for low to mid-grade routes’ (Over The Moors Guidebook). 40 climbs up to HS, including Nasal Buttress HS 4b***; Answer Crack hvd 4a***, ‘a moorland grit classic … a soaring juggy flake, better than Heaven Crack’. Other more esoteric gems in Dovestones Quarry including Black and White Traverse, a 120m three pitch rising traverse, hvd. Guides: Over the Moors (2012), Moorland Gritstone, Chew Valley (1988).

Scrambling: routes 1 – 10 in Tom Corker’s guide – featuring Aldermans Rocks, the Trinnacle on Ravenstones and as many gullies as you can find on Wilderness Rocks.
Walking: over the moors to Laddow, Black Hill, tea wagon at the Isle of Skye on the A635, Wessenden Reservoirs and the delights of Marsden.

As this is such a great place and days are closing in I’ll be leaving Sheffield 8.15, to get there for 9.30. I can give a lift to 3 people. If the weather’s good – I’ll leave a ‘castle’ sign in my car and see others up the crag. If the weather’s poor – I’ll be in the car park ‘till 10.30 and we can regroup.

See you there.
Geoff

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