A cool but dry day saw Members climbing routes graded from Severe to HVS. There is nowhere else in the Peak where you can climb 40 metre routes in such a beautiful setting, We were looking down through the trees on the River Derwent.
Some great climbing was enjoyed. The guidebook has comments such as “dramatic position” and “climb the wall on cool holds” about some of the routes done.
The need to abseil from the crag top was an inconvenience but not a significant issue. A really good crag – go and experience it for yourselves if you have never done so!
David
All posts in Meet Reports
Anglesey meet report:10-11 September 2002
Saturday saw 11 members of the club rendezvousing at the campsite. Two visiting for the day and one delayed arrival. Two teams went off climbing on Castle Helen and Holyhead mountain. A figure of eight walk planned from the campsite to allow the delayed arrival to join in. The weather Gods were smiling on us on the Saturday; however, it seemed that the traffic Gods had gone away for the weekend causing the late arrival and ensuring the journey back on Sunday took 5+ hours to complete.
A Barbeque on the evening went on into the dark, mainly because the Holyhead mountain climbers didn’t want to leave the crag while there was enough light to keep climbing,
Sunday morning was bright and warm, but it was going to rain at some stage (well it is Wales). Forecast said between 10.00 and 2.00, depending on who’s phone you look at. The Holyhead mountain climber decided to go back and tick off a few more of the excellent routes on offer.
The remaining Party decided to drive to Wylfa head and take in the views of the redundant nuclear power station and walk along the coast towards Cemaes Bay as far as Llanbadrig Point, taking lunch in the shelter of the church at T’y n-llan.
Trying to keep the group walking was proving hopeless. Bushes along the way were systematically stripped of all their fruits and when the beach was reached at Cemaes they ripped off their clothes and threw themselves into the Irish sea! The only way to stop them swimming back to Wylfa was the promise of a cafe stop. Cemaes didn’t disappoint because the tearoom was excellent. Trying to get them out of the tearoom was also proving difficult and some members of the group were becoming visibly distressed by having to leave without tasting the marmalade cake!
Arriving at the church saw the first rain drops. After lunch we took a more direct route back, taking waterproofs on and off several times along the way,
Thanks to everyone for coming. hope to see you all again in Anglesey .
Leon.
Climbing Meet on Sunday 28th August 2022
9 members [or it might have been 10] eventually gathered at the left hand, north end of Stanage for a delightful day of climbing in warm sunshine, great views over the moors and minimal midges. Some arrived with only a helmet and harness [including I have to admit, this meet leader] with no intention to lead and a variety of almost plausible excuses. But eventually there were 5 leaders and various grades of climb were completed successfully. Having not been on a Castle climbing meet for a while, I was reassured that a request for a ‘tight rope’ was still understood, that using knees occasionally was seen to be acceptable, as was the odd swear word when stressed [Charles would certainly have been teasing me about completing a 2-shit climb]. So thank you all for your very agreeable company [and I hope the gear was successfully retrieved].
Vanda Boyd
Harpur Hill 21st Sept 2022
The morning dew soon disappeared as more climbers joined us in the sunshine for some quarried limestone sport climbing.
It was the first time I’d been to this venue and the first time I’d done any sport since Norway 4(?) years ago! I’m not sure all the trad climbers enjoyed some of the distances between the bolts but there were some very nice routes for those top-roping. Those a little more used to it, showed us how it was done, leaving the better routes for the afternoon.
Gemma
Pembroke meet, August 2022
I thought that I had planned the meet well – the birds had finished nesting, the Army were on holiday and the tides were great. However, I had not anticipated a heatwave, meaning we had to climb in the shade where possible. Still 17 of us made it to Bosherston and had a great time. We tended to start climbing very early, doing routes on west facing crags until the sun came on them and we escaped to the beach and a swim. Most of the climbing done was in Range East, with new cliffs being visited by many or the whole area by some. We all learned that it takes a long time to find the right cliff and set up the abseil in the right place – sometimes taking longer than climbing the route itself.
I am sure that everyone will remember the blue skies, benign blue sea and great climbing for a long time. A sociable time in a very special part of our country. David
Sunday Walk Report 9th August 2022
Miller’s Dale was the start of this White Peak gem. Six CMC members plus two family guests and 3 dogs set off along the length of Chee Dale – over the stepping stones and through the tunnels of butterbur . At Topley Pike we climbed up and over Deep Dale, stopping at a convenient bench for drinks. Work at the quarry is still active and extensive. Chelmorton churchyard provided a lunch spot before more ascent up and over the valley to take us down throughout Priestcliffe to the Monsal Trail and ice creams. Lovely warm day. Non stop chat kept the party moving to complete our 8.7 miles (official figure from Dick).
Ali
Climbing Report 7th August 2022 Laddow
Thirteen of us and Billy, the Jack Russell, took advantage of almost perfect weather conditions at Laddow Rocks. We ticked lots of starred routes with several teams enjoying the “Top 50” classics the Long Climb and Tower Face. Some impressive leading skills demonstrated by our newer members but it took two old lags to show the rest how to do the difficult start to Tower Face with minimal fuss! Paul Embley
Chew Valley – meet report 30th and 31st July
Climbing Report: Bamford Edge 17th July 2022
We opted for an early start to beat the heat and shortly after 7.30am ten of us gathered at Neb Buttress and then moved around to make the most of the many classic routes scattered around the edge. Matt and Rosie went Happy Wandering, Rosa and Julian entertained the TikTok brigade with an acrobatic ascent of Gargoyle Flake, Eden demonstrated his rapidly developing leading skills by cruising Brown’s Crack and Nick, who had unfortunately forgotten his harness, did an impressive solo ascent of Bamford Wall. Lots of other starred classics were climbed including Bamford Rib, Wrinkled Wall, Bilberry Crack, Quien Sabe? and Curving Crack. And if anyone wants a No 3 Rock they could try dislodging the one we got stuck at the bottom of Bilberry Crack – but you might need a masonry drill as three of us tried for 45 minutes and couldn’t budge it! Paul Embley
Bleaklow Walk Report 10th July 2022
Seven plus Meg the dog gathered in Old Glossop in a blistering 26 degree heat for this Bleaklow round. After 1km of track we ascended to Yellow Slacks and duly rewarded ourselves with a refreshment break. Following the left hand edge of Dowstone Clough, compass directions and with the aid of indistinct paths we headed across the moorland to the Hern Stones and then the Wain Stones – our chosen lunch spot. Admiring these sculptural pieces, we decided that “Kissing” should be replaced by “Grimacing Stones”. 250m further on the level gave our first top of the day – Bleaklow Head – a very uninspiring pile of stones with a metal pole. Retracing our steps to the Grimacing Pair, some playtime was had with photo opportunities, jumping from one head to the other, plus an inelegant scramble to the top of the boulder opposite. Onward with a bit more compass work to the aircraft wreckage (Boeing RB-29A Superfortress which crashed on 3 November 1948 whilst descending through clouds). Plenty of twisted metal bits to root through. ( Can you tell I am not a military historian!) A tad beyond this, we located the second top of the day – Higher Shelf Stones. The long descent involved crossing a ravine at Crooked Clough where we joined the Pennine Way and then the Doctor’s Gate path back to the cars. We completed 9 miles/15km with 1850ft/564m ascent on a very hot day with no shade (felt more!). However it was a gift to see this beautiful area, with all its features, on a clear bright day. Great company as always.
Ali