Ten of us and Weaver the dog braved the rather wintry conditions in the Sanctuary area of Harpur Hill quarries today. We found most routes quite hard for the grade – or perhaps sports climbing in Mediterranean sunshine has made us all soft! The bolts were quite widely spaced so there was some deft use of clipsticks. Biggest challenge of the day was retrieving a quickdraw left halfway up a route after a failed attempt. It was eventually reached by an impressive pendulum when lowering off an adjacent route. Typically the sunshine arrived just as most of us had run out of strength and were about to leave. Paul.

Eight set off from Peak Forest and soon we ticked our first top of Bradwell Moor (471m), with views of Mam Tor in the distance. A meander down and along the Limestone Way took us to the head of Eldon Quarry. The location has a certain wow factor and is one of the largest quarries in the country. Apparently works stopped as late as the 1990s and it has been the site of recent filming for the Apple series “War of the Worlds,” So, after refreshments, we decided to make a foray into the abyss. (Perhaps, not an official path!) After skirting the edge of the quarry, we climbed up the tussocky south western slopes of Eldon Hill (470m,) for our second tick, more photos and lunch. After a brief stop to look down Eldon Hole (identified by Thomas Hobbes’ Latin poem De Miralbilibus Pecci 1636 as one of “the seven wonders of Derbyshire” we followed a track back to the cars. Six miles completed on this growing popular “Easy Saturday” CMC meet. As the weather was so glorious, we decided to end the day with a dip in the very cold Derwent on the way home. Thanks for the company. Ali.

Ten humans and one sheepdog struggled up through the bracken and heather to Shining Clough, one of the finest moorland crags. After a period of recuperation we then collected more stars than you’d find in a painting by Vincent Van Gogh! Via Principia*** S 4a, Atherton Brothers** S 4a, Stable Cracks** VS 4b, Phoenix Climb*** VS 4c and Pisa Super Direct *** HVS 5a all received ascents by the main group. Meanwhile Andrew and Leon beavered away in obscurity at the western end of the crag, finally joining the mainstream for an ascent of Stable Cracks. We retreated in the late afternoon as the rain clouds were approaching. Paul.

After a last minute change to our transport arrangements sixteen of us were flown to Lundy by helicopter rather than by boat. This was exciting but meant that we had to restrict the weight of our bags, leave behind gas canisters for our stoves and arrived on the island too late to climb on our first day. We also learned on arrival that due to the success of the seabird breeding colonies this spring there were extra restrictions on climbing areas. From there onwards all was in our favour. Tides were friendly, we had sunshine every day and the easterly winds meant that the west coast climbing venues remained warm and sheltered,
Unsurprisingly the big attraction was the massive slab of the Devil’s Slide so that we needed a rota system to avoid overcrowding. Two teams padded up Satan’s Slip (E1 5a) with it’s gear free 40 metre second pitch up the centre of the slab. A team of three climbed the impressive corner followed by Albion VS (4c). Impressively all fifteen climbers ascended Devil’s Slide HS (4a) during our stay. This led to much discussion back on the campsite on the best way to complete the delicate traverse on the top pitch. Hand traverse or foot traverse? The jury is still out! Visits were also made to Flying Buttress, Landing Craft Bay, Picnic Buttress and Arch Zawn with many classic routes ticked such as Diamond Solitaire (VS), Double Diamond (HVS), Indy 500 (E1), Horseman’s Route (HS) and Headline (E1). One group misguidedly ventured onto the Knights Templar rocks on the windy east coast and climbed in several windproof layers whilst the rest of the group were climbing in tee-shirts on the west coast.
The enjoyment of our climbing was enhanced by our closeness to the island’s spectacular wildlife. Fallow deer, hebridean sheep, wild ponies and highland cattle roam the uplands whilst the sea cliffs are home to nesting seabirds and grey seals basking on the rocks below. Everyone’s favourites were the puffins above Picnic Bay which lined up to watch us eating our sandwiches.
In the evenings good food and excellent beer tempted us into the Marisco Tavern. On two nights we were entertained by a talented group of musicians who encouraged us to sing along to sea shanties and contemporary classics and baffled us with a song about a next door neighbour who liked to dress up as a female badger!
Fortunately the boat was back in action for our return journey allowing some of us to enjoy some final climbing, Gordon and Hugh to search for a WW2 plane wreck and the rest of us to walk round the island enjoying the wildlife. A great trip enjoyed by those of us who were visiting the island for the first time and also by the Lundy regulars.
Paul E

Twelve of us met up at a delightful campsite on the edge of Dartmoor. Some of us were warming up for Lundy but Steve and Charlotte also drove down and Paul and Vanda arrived in their impressive motorhome and treated us to guided tours including tea and biscuits. The dry and sunny conditions allowed us to climb on the Dartmoor tors which aren’t often in condition. We all climbed at Hay Tor, finding the routes enjoyable but hard for the grade. We also provided entertainment for the crowds of tourists flocking to the tor on this bank holiday weekend. David and Mark returned to team up with a local to ascend the plumb line of Aviation. Hound’s Tor also provided us with good quality climbing. The only disappointment was Sheep’s Tor. Although in a stunning situation the climbs were rather oversold in the guidebook and proved to be polished and hard to protect. The group who went to the Dewerstone had more success. The prize line being Spider’s Web which as the name suggests zig-zags up the face of Raven Buttress. Late in the day Mark treated the meet organiser to an exhilarating abseil off the stance at the top of the stunning first pitch of Central Groove. Soloing the second pitch might have been marginally less exciting!
An enjoyable visit to a climbing area which normally only serves as a stop-off on the way to or from Cornwall.

Paul E.

A small group of us wandered round the various follies of Wentworth Castle, fuelled by coffee! Picture taking, deer spotting and structure perusals formed the basis of the walk. A wave of colour welcomed us into the gardens via the grand avenue. Azaleas and Rhodos in full glory. Lunch at the castle folly, an ascent of the tower, and then a meander to the tropical glass house before tea, ice cream and cake. Tough going in beautiful sunshine with lovely company, but we made it!! A grand 5 miles completed.
Ali

An enthusiastic group completed this 10.5 mile circular walk – following the round of Birchens, White, Curbar/Froggatt and Baslow Edges. Sunny skies, pleasant breeze and wonderful views throughout. Highlights included the sighting of an adder, a small herd of deer and bluebell woods. It was lovely to catch up with Rachel (ex CMC member, visiting the area for the weekend.). Nostalgia also played a part in the day, learning that Froggatt was where Charlotte first met an upside down Steve over thirty years ago.! ( Not my story to tell!) Great company everyone- thank you.! Keep an eye out for the next summer walk posting!
Ali

Lots of us met at Wharncliffe to do homage to Puttrell’s routes. In fine weather many routes were climbed and right tough some of them were. Much traditional stuff. I don’t know how many – but someone may make a claim for their own tally on whatsap. Good to see you all. We could easily repeat the experience, working along the crag from where we left off.  Geoff.