Castle Mountaineering Club. Reports of 1986 meets.
Tideswell walk/climb. 5 January. A stroll through the limestone
dales by half a dozen members. With snow on the ground and ice on
the crags, climbing was off. Brightly coloured tape slings hung
among the icicles from unlikely looking places on the cliffs of
Chee Dale, but no climbers were seen.
Derwent Edge walk. 12 January. Ably led by Dave Crowther, a party
of ten battled against strong winds and cheek-stinging hail to
reach Margery Hill via Back Tor, icy paths, mostly frozen hard
bogs, and snow filled groughs. Return was via Cut Gate and
Slippery Stones. A curry ensued later in the evening.
Caving. 19th January. A band of half a dozen led by Martin
Whitaker made a traverse of Swinsto Cavern, Yorkshire. Heavy rain
meant the water level was much higher than usual. Long crawling
sections and abseils down waterfalls were features of the
expedition. Several false trails were explored before the correct
exit was found.
Patterdale. 25-26 January. This must have been one of the best
winter meets to the Lakes for some time. The weather on the
Saturday was absolutely unbeatable: fine, sunny, excellent
visibility and no wind. Almost more like the Alps than winter
Britain. Sunday was nearly as brilliant. Attendance was good as
usual; more than 40 stayed at the Starkey hut, nearby cottage,
youth hostel or campsite. Most people were active on the
Helvellyn side of the dale, either ice climbing or ridge-walking.
Nethermost Gully had a mass CMC ascent; it contained two very
pleasant short ice pitches and a steep though not corniced exit.
Striding Edge was a popular way to the summit, particularly by
some of the youngsters attending the meet. The summit of
Helvellyn, predictably, was like Piccadilly Circus and CMC members
were popping up everywhere. Views were superb in the very clear
air. Apart from the surrounding peaks of the Lake District, one
could see the Galloway Hills to the north, Cross Fell and the
Pennines to the east and Ingleborough to the south. Skiers were
disappointed because there was insufficient snow lower down, but
the hard snow conditions on top made the wearing of crampons
both necessary and enjoyable.
Crowden meet. 2 February. “Because of weather conditions at the
weekend similar to those of the winter of 1978-9, when half of
Derbyshire was cut off by snow, the Crowden meet was rearranged
for Froggatt. Even this was too ambitious.
Three people rendezvoused in a snowdrift on the B6055, whilst the
other three indulged in emergency car repairs on the top of
Ramsley Moor. The snowdrift team eventually reached the Chequers
first, and went for a short walk through Froggatt Wood and along
the river from Grindleford to the Bridge Inn. The riverside walk
was under 2″ of icy slush, and was avoided by the return route
along the other side of the river. The breakdown team arrived at
the Chequers just in time to see the Woozles leaving for the
wood, and followed their footprints until they came to a grassy
field. At this point they headed uphill to the Grouse, for lunch.
They plodded back through the snow along the beginning of
Froggatt Edge, then dropped down through the trees back to the
cars.
The Pinnacle looked very dramatic from below, with spindrift
flying over it, and all the slabs were blanketed in snow.
Curiously nobody seemed to be climbing…Sue Stallibrass.”
Settle area walk. 9 February. This venue was cancelled on account
of the weather conditions (lots of snow). Instead a skiing meet
was organised, starting at Ladybower and heading up the Derwent
Valley and eventually up on to Back Tor. Several members made the
trip, using a mixture of Nordic and Alpine skis.
16 February. This was listed as a free Sunday on the meets list,
so in view of the continuing snow the President organised another
skiing expedition, this time from Redmires. Following a well
known Castle tradition, she didn’t actually turn up herself, but
a handful of skiers did, braving the spindrift to traverse the
moors to the Millstone Inn (where the President had arrived for
lunch). Return was via the Higgar Tor road (which was nicely
drifted up for skiing and completely impassable for vehicles) to
Burbage Bridge and Stanage Pole. The moor was generally a bit icy
but fine for skiing where you could follow lines of soft snow
filling hollows or behind walls.
Jack’s winter walk. 23 February. NOTE: the views expressed in the
following report are solely those of the author; any resemblance to
actual club members is probably intentional. “A Winter’s Tale. by
Jack Ashcroft. “I’m going to Wales”, “I’m going to Scotland”, “He’s
gone to Scotland”, “Can’t make it this weekend”, “I’ve arranged with
Bob”, “I’m going skiing”, “Why don’t you walk the other way?”, “What
time will you finish?”, “The conditions are awful on top – hell last
weekend”, “No, we are going to ski from Yorkshire Bridge. Meet you for
part of the walk 11.30 at Alport” – So it went on. The meet of excuses
– like the Bridge of Sighs. But the prize was from Frank on Saturday
night “I think I’m going skiing – got a bad back”. I thought there
would be trouble in camp with a woman president. I knew from the
start but didn’t think quite so much deviation. Now we know she’s not
all that enthusiastic about walking. Something to do with physical
proportions I suppose but why saddle everyone with VS stuff. Anyway
the meet got underway as planned 930am Edale carpark, only three: Andy
Smith (Hon Sec), Nick Steen (prospective member) and me. A straight
line drawn between Grindslow Knoll and Langsett more or less cuts
Upper Tor, Alport Castles and Bullstones. And so our route
approximated to this: Just east of Upper Tor, over to Blackden Clough
and along the Edge, then down to the Alport (Hayridge Farm). The sun
shone, a northeast wind but it was hell under foot. Icy cover to soft
snow, continually breaking through. The descent was particularly
laborious. Just after 12-noon Alport. No Marian and party so on our
way to Alport Castles then down to West End. The sun shone, a
northeast wind and much better under foot – except for thigh deep snow
as we entered the wood. The gentle stroll to Slippery Stones – a
completely frozen dam. A flurry of snow then the sun again. Up onto
Cut Gate with some fine afternoon sun lit views of Howden Edge, Outer
Edge, and Margery Hill. The terrain an arctic wilderness – the sun
shone, a northeast wind – and good under foot. The Hon Sec and his
skis, on and off, gave ample time to stand and stare. The Alport
Castles to Cut Gate in such winter conditions is an incredibly fine
walk. A photograph at Cut Gate 415pm and so the descent. The sun
sinking fast, a colder northeast wind and where the hell are we? In
such conditions Ewden to Hingcliff Hill was an icy plateau with a
valley exit to the east, a line of descent we chose without too much
thought, arriving at the road and the walk over the hill to
Midhopestones in bright full moonlight between 6pm and 7pm. We
couldn’t walk past the inn (who would) where a pleasant pint in the
contrasting open fire warmth of the previous 10 hours had to be
experienced to be believed. What happened to the ski party!!! It was
too late to check in for a curry that night but I suggest this
addition to the menu in future or maybe the Annual Dinner would be
more appropriate. “The President’s Speciality (1986)” … (there
follows an intriguing recipe for ‘Bull’s Goolies’ which for reason of
space will not be reproduced here; those interested may consult the
manuscript of this report in the club logbook) … “Next year’s Winter
Walk will be led by Marian Birkett? Will it be a round walk or a
straight line?”
Edale skyline. 2 March. This was completed by a mixed party of
skiers and walkers on a pleasant day – little wind and warm
sunshine at times, enough to soften the ice, and clear air giving
very good views. The circuit was done anticlockwise from Win Hill
to Lose Hill. Most of the route followed a beaten trail through
the snow, making both walking and skiing easier than it would
have been on the icy crust over soft snow away from the path.
Quite a reasonable time – 8 hours – for winter conditions. The
day was rounded off by a curry at the Himalaya.
Glencoe. 8-9 March. This had originally seemed a well supported
meet from the names signed on the list, but nearly everyone had
second thoughts, including the meet leader, and in the event only
four members were at Lagangarbh. Admittedly conditions could have
been better – warm and wet, soggy snow avalanching out of the
gullies and the tops in thick clag. Ice climbing was out, and
there was not enough snow low down to make it worth skiing. We
walked up three “corbetts”, one each day; the view from the top
was the same as from many munros (thick clag). Actually it
started to brighten up quite nicely just as we had to leave for
home. Ah well let’s hope for better things on next winter’s
Lagangarbh meet.
North Wales – Easter meet. “Despite the usual appalling weather
eight members turned up for this meet including your meet leader
(oops sorry Marian I mean organiser). Arriving early on Thursday
because of my participation in the Government Climbing Training
Scheme (thanks Maggie) I was winched up a couple of routes at Pen
Trwyn and climbed Superdirect on Milestone Buttress under my own
steam.
The following day the weather degenerated and we went to
Tremadoc. Under firm direction from the President, Dave Crowther
and I were unable to remain in the cafe all day and instead were
blown about on One Step in the Clouds (they came down to meet us
on the route) and Christmas Curry with the Micah finish. Saturday
was again spent at Tremadoc with the President leading the first
pitch of Grim Wall in a rainstorm in true Tilman style.
Fortunately after much whimpering from me a suitable tree enabled
an abseil back into the cafe.
On Easter Day with Martin, Paul, Dave, and Dave we went to – yes
you’ve guessed it – Tremadoc. Several routes were climbed
including the Castle on Craig y Gesail and Creag Dhu Wall on
Craig y Castell. I managed a major coup in the cafe by getting a
special for only £1. While we were busy eating at Tremadoc Mark
was testing the waterproofing of KSB’s in wet snow on Moel
Siabod. The evening was spent drinking with Andy and Rosy who
were residing with some style in the Ty’n y Coed.
Dovedale. 11 May. A select half dozen took part in an ascent of
Thorpe Cloud, a walk along the Dovedale tourist route, and a pub
lunch.
Glen Nevis. 24-26 May (“Spring?!” Bank Holiday). Rain, sleet,
snow and wind were the predominant features of this meet. Still
it could have been worse – we could have been getting soaked and
seasick in a sailing boat like Frank Jennifer Neil Ian and Nesta.
Various club members converged on the overpriced campsite from
diverse parts of the country (in one case, via an overnight stop
in a muddy field near Wigan), and spent varying amounts of time
in Nevisport and Fort William hostelries before retreating to
warmer and drier climes (climbs?) further south. Nevertheless,
several people enjoyed a scramble around the “Ring of Steall”,
which included such delights as the crossing of the wire bridge
at the Steall hut (with dog in rucksack!), and struggling up
vertical grass, mud, trees and heather using what the guidebook
described as “Tarzan Tactics”. Superb Mamores ridge walking
formed the bulk of the route. Other achievements, over a fairly
wide area around our base, included Ben Nevis (by the tourist
route), the Aonach Eagach, Curved Ridge on the Buachaille, the
Great Ridge of Garbh Bheinn, Stob Ban, Ben Hiant, and Recess
Route on the Cobbler. However, memories of glorious sunshine on
Skye the same week last year had to remain memories, and perhaps
hopes for better weather next year.
Novices’ evening. 12 June. A session was held on the clubroom
climbing wall to introduce novices to the basics of rockclimbing,
ropework etc. This was followed up at the next club meet at
Bamford Edge.
Coniston. 14-15 June. The long-awaited summer arrived at last for
this well-attended family meet, though unfortunately the Saturday
was marred by rather persistent mist. Many family parties made
their way up the Old Man, whilst climbers disported themselves on
Dow and Gimmer crags. Anyone finding a single abandoned EB in the
vicinity of former is asked to return it in a plain brown
envelope to DD.
Twistleton Scars. 29 June. Dave Crowther reports. “This meet was
held eventually at Dovestones Tor, above Chew Valley (well most
of you were on holiday and of those who were not, only Frank,
Jennifer and myself fancied the long distance limestone).
However, a change of venue allowed us to meet Dave and Rosie Dunk
(who were on the outward leg of their honeymoon), Ian L. and
Neil. A hot day meant that the north-facing crags were enjoyed by
all, despite some grading anomalies.”
Llanberis. 5-6 July. The heatwave unfortunately ended just before
this meet, but the rain held off for the most part, and a tour of
the 14 peaks, taking both days of the weekend, was completed by a
team of four, led by the incomparable Jack Ashcroft; all summits
except two were in the clag. The climbers managed a variety of
routes on a variety of crags both in the Pass and out of it, e.g.
Cwm Glas (Main Wall), Tremadoc (three extremes in a day by the
President), Carreg Wastad, Dinas y Gromlech (Sabre Cut, Flying
Buttress), Carreg Alltrem, Idwal Slabs and Gribin Facet. Any
further moaning about the perfidy of a certain well-known female
climber is henceforth banned on club meets.
Wasdale. 26-27 July. This was a rather sparsely attended meet in
rather mixed weather, and the expected 100 years + 1 month ascents of
Napes Needle were not accomplished. Our meet leader (I mean
co-ordinator), who had chosen to stay in a cottage in Langdale,
condescended to join us for two excellent scrambles – on Middle Fell
on Saturday, and the magnificent Ill Ghyll of Kirkfell on Sunday. The
latter involves over 1000ft of superb scrambling up the ghyll bed and
includes a couple of excellent (if slightly wet) little rock pitches
on which a rope proved useful. After emerging from the ghyll near the
top, most of the party continued over the summit (in thick clag),
though not before the rescue of a rucksack which had accidentally been
dropped back down the ghyll. Though the thermos flask it contained had
been broken, the inner layer of glass remained intact, and the coffee
was thus still drinkable! Saturday’s escapade also involved some
interesting rope technique, examples of which may feature in the Club
Interest section of this year’s photographic competition.
Dolomites. Summer ’86. Although not an official club meet, lots of
members went there. Jack Ashcroft has provided the following account
(persevere; he does get to the point eventually). “SIX WEEKS IN SUMMER
’86. or From Snowdon to the Sfulmini Ridge (Brenta). That it was a
six week period from John Barnard’s Llanberis meet 4/6 July to the
Club’s return from their ‘Dolomite Tour 1986’ might seem unconnected –
but not for me, so let me elaborate. I recall John’s meet was listed
as the Welsh 3000’s. In the event at least 10 members and a dog
climbed for the weekend. It was given to me to lead the 14 Welsh
3000ft peaks, which turned out to be an excellent walking weekend in
spite of dubious weather at 4.30am on the Saturday when we made a bee
line for Foel Fras in cloud and drizzle. In fact the only time clear
views were experienced was 10am-12am as we came out of the cloud from
Pen-yrolewen and ascended Tryfan. We were soon in cloud again on
Glyder Fach, and over Y Garn and Elidir Fawr it went decidedly dark
with a shower of rain. At Nant Peris spirits dampened a little. The
advancing hours and that our route on to Crib Goch passed through our
campsite had something to do with our decision to leave the Snowdon
group for the Sunday morning. The pleasure and leisure of the late
evening sunlight in Llanberis was therefore enjoyed to the full. The
next morning was still misty, but well rested it was pleasant to
scramble along Crib Goch on to Snowdon with Peter, Mark and Rob, who
then went on over Lliwedd giving 15 peaks for them over the weekend.
Come the last week of July the Dolomites were the call of the day. I
can do little more than say it was an extremely active meet. Janet and
I first visited Merano for a few days walking around Hafling and
Gr. Ifinger, then over the top to Sarentino. Gentle walking country
south of the Punta Cervina but the thunderstorm we experienced on the
Spieler (2080m) path was far from gentle. It was then a party of
twelve who essentially met in the Brenta Dolomite and traversed the
group from north to south in six days. It is not necessary to take six
days. If you really push it, the distance could be done in three
days. But then you can take six days over the Welsh 3000’s if you
wish! And so how did we do it? Frank said as we stepped from the Passo
de Groste cable car “I’m following Route 16”. “I’m not” said Jack “I’m
for path 316.” THe Italians really have the area laced up with
protected paths, climbing paths (Via Ferrata) and of course graded
rock climbs. The following routes were done by various parties: Cima
Groste (2897m) N Face route. Via Ferrata (north to south of Brenta
Dolomites); Alfredo Benini, delle Bochette Alte, Sosat, delle Bochette
Centrale, Orsi, Palmieri, Ettore Castiglioni and delle Ideale. Cima
Tosa (3173m) S Face route. The “Five Laghi Walk” from Campiglio. The
walk over Mt. Vigo and Mt. Spolverino to Folgarida. The meet was based
on Madonna di Campiglio with the huts Tuckett, Padrotti and Agostini
providing accommodation on our north-south traverse of the Brenta.
The meet then split in various directions. The Marmolata (3344m),
Kesselkoga (3004m), Denti di Terrarossa (2653m) via Maximilian Way
among other Via Ferrata routes, were done by Frank, Jennifer, Ian and
Dave. Pat and Chris went off to the Otztal for some snow peaks and
Brian, Toni, Janet and myself returned home. Finally, Marian our
President and Pippa 2 visited the Dolomites mid-August to mop up
things in the Sella and Pala groups. I bet the President spurned the
Via Ferrata! Over to you Ma’am. And a word of thanks to the SAT and
CAI.”
Lundy. 23-30 August (bank holiday week). Report by Dave Crowther.
Well, four Castle members actually made it to Lundy this time,
with others getting stranded on the mainland (for a change). My
brain will not stretch to the mega mindboggling
super-duperlatives that seem to flow so easily from the pen of Mr
Gibson so I’ll just say we had a bloody good time. Our grand
total of 276 stars between all ten of us shows that there are
excellent routes there (all you have to do is follow the trails
of red fluff…). We haven’t worked out the total metreage yet.
My thanks to all who went, especially the Parnassus members who
jumped at the chance to climb on Lundy – let’s hope we have more
joint meets there, and elsewhere, in the future.
Eastern Edges Walk. 7 September. The weather was perfect: warm,
dry, fairly clear with some sunshine and enough of a breeze to
keep the insects away. After some juggling with cars to ensure
transport at the end of the walk, 18 set out from the Flouch at
half past eight and strode enthusiastically up Cut Gate to
Margery Hill. Next destination was Back Tor and the party fannned
out on approaching Abbey Clough, with some dropping steeply into
it and up the other side, others preferring to skirt round. We
regrouped for elevenses below the trig point and then set out
along Derwent Edge bound for Moscar. The heather was in full
bloom and a made a beautiful spread of colour over the moors. On
along Stanage Edge to a draughty lunch spot near the High Neb
trig point. Suddenly the president appeared and accompanied us
over Higgar Tor and Carl Wark to Toad’s Mouth and a very welcome
tea stop at the Longshaw cafe. Here some dropped out to return to
Sheffield whilst others joined the party for the last part of the
walk. Someone in front set a cracking pace through Longshaw and
over Froggatt, Curbar and Baslow Edges. Finally across to Birchen
where we met some of the club members who had opted to climb
instead of walk. All that remained was to drop down to the Robin
Hood Inn which I greatly regret to say had not yet opened. An
excellent day and a good turnout. Many participants reassembled
later in the evening for a drink and a curry.
Shining Clough. 14 September. Report by Sue Stallibrass. “15 people
and their dog went to climb on Bleaklow. The shining sun and blooming
heather made this a very enjoyable meet. There was a good turnout: 15
people and a dog (a walker rather than a climber), plus occasional
overwhelming support from the local midge population. Martin declined
to repeat a route he had climbed a couple of years ago, giving the
feeble excuse that the entire buttress had fallen down, but put up a
new route to the left of Monkey Puzzle called Orang Arete VS 4c, and
Chris put up a new route between Ave and Birthday Chimney, Little Pig
(5b). The rest of us enjoyed some classic routes on some of the most
user friendly gritstone this limestone lover has encountered (yes, the
meet organiser actually turned up!). Dave Dunk climbed Phoenix with
his usual inimitable style. A non club member climbing the route after
Dave and Rosie had left was heard to exclaim “I can’t jam this – it’s
full of blood!” Mark did the honours by transporting at least 9 people
in his Sherpa (since the back door didn’t close too well, there may
have been more when we started…) and the day ended with a convivial
couple of pints in Stocksbridge.”
Clubroom working party. 27 September. A perfect day, but a small
willing band of workers, with John Starey as “gaffer”, gave up a
day on the crags to do some necessary maintenance work on the
clubroom. The roof was patched up in a couple of leaky places;
paintwork redone; an upper window re-glazed, and the back gutter
cleared of ivy and bitumined (Next year the front gutter will
need replacing). Many thanks to all who turned up.
Stanage. 28 September. Report by Ian Barton. As usual the popular
end of Stanage drew the crowds. Your meet organiser was dragged
from bed by Dave and Rosy Dunk at some early hour (I was too
tired to notice) and taken through the mists (alcoholic haze?) to
Stanage. After seeing visions of Chris Bonington wobbling on
Queersville I struggled my way up Styx. Eventually the sun and
the crowds arrived and as this was my last day of freedom before
going back to work, I managed to work my way through most of the
classics at this end of Stanage. Other people seemed to be having
a similarly good time and I was even called on to rescue a couple
of people (I won’t say who, John and Nesta). Feeling suitably
heroic I ambled off to the pub and had to use both hands to lift
a pint I was so tired. All in all a classic day.
Round Kinder walk. 5 October. The Snake Inn was the rendezvous
for eleven would-be bogtrotters (plus two dogs), including the
president, vice president and secretary and a sprinkling of ex
presidents – clearly a meet for connoisseurs. The weather looked
promising, as if the morning mist would burn-off to give a warm
sunny day; it never did. We ascended to Seal Stones and were
treated to a discourse by Jack Ashcroft on whether the walk was
“around Kinder”, “a Round of Kinder”, or “a Kinder round”, an
issue which was never fully resolved during the day. The northern
edge was followed around to the Downfall, via the first of the
day’s trig points (2048′). The going was unusually dry following
a longish spell with no rain. We saw several mountain bikes out –
an increasingly common sight on the local moors. Lunch at the
Downfall, with sheep trying to share it, then on to Kinder Low;
oops! missed the trig point at 2077′ – too busy talking. Never
mind we double backed to it. Then to Kinder’s summit (2088′)
marked by a cairn and wooden stake with the height carved in it,
so you know you are at the right place. (“Hey, surely those rocks
over there are higher!”). Striding out now: Grindslow Knoll,
Upper Tor, Nether Tor and over the groughs to the final trig
point of the day (1937′), and who should we meet but Alan
Fletcher who had got a bit of a late start. Slightly further on,
Madwoman’s Stones provided the opportunity for some bouldering
and a tea break before heading back to Seal Stones en route for
the Snake Inn (which alas was closed!).
Offa’s Dyke/ Clwyd limestone. 25-26 October. The Saturday was horrible
– wind and rain galore, which might have explained the low attendance
of only five members. The Smith family opted for swimming in Ruabon
followed by the fleshpots of Llangollen while the others got almost as
wet sampling sections of the Offa’s Dyke path in the same area. The
wind died in the evening and Sunday was, surprisingly, a very nice
day. Climbing on good limestone at Craig y Forwen, Worlds End, was the
order of the day, except for the Smith’s who did a mass ascent of Moel
Famau and were rewarded by good views from the top.
Bleaklow. 2 November. A beautiful day for the time of year, so it
was perhaps surprising that only 5 turned up for this meet. Up
Westend and onto Grinah Stones, where some bouldering took place.
Quite thick ice on the puddles, a few snow patches and clear
distant views. On to Bleaklow Stones where lunch was eaten. There
seemed more people around than usual for Bleaklow but perhaps its
just that you don’t usually see them for the mist. Up and down
over the groughs, attempting to follow the stakes to Wain Stones.
Back over Bleaklow Head and down into Swain’s Greave to the head
of the Derwent, which was followed to Slippery Stones. An
excellent moorland walk of about 16 miles.
Beeston Tor climb/walk. 30 November. Report by Martin Whitaker.
“A walk/climb that had more climbers than walkers. The walkers
(Tim and Dubbo) did not put in an impressive performance in terms
of miles covered, though their lunchtime consumption of alcohol
at the pub in Waterfall (what a lovely name – must go there!) was
impressive. Route-finding ability, which had not been good before
the pub, was abysmal after it – the result being a couple of
circles before retracing footsteps, and reaching the cars at
dusk. Meanwhile, epics were also afoot on the crags. Firstly the
river was a mile high, so some of the stepping stones were a
trifle damp (like under water!). With only one pair of wellies
between six, some time was taken in getting across – next year
I’m entering the national welly-throwing championships! Pippa
drew the short straw and had to climb with me. It was a cold,
damp, grey day, and nobody attempted anything harder than HVS. The
Thorn was 5c that day! Marian and Dave C, and Dave P and Linda
did the starred classic VSs (West Wall Climb, Central Wall,
Nocturne, etc) and got off quite competently before dark. Pippa
and I got into an epic on the esoteric “Gary Gobstopper” when the
second could not follow. Leader abseiled for gear and on to the
bottom of the crag, picking up the second on the way. Ropes would
not follow, so long trudge to top of crag in dark, much crashing
about in bushes, scrambling down vertical mud and grass, etc,
etc, before ropes retrieved. And that was the end of 1986’s CMC
climbing meets.”